The Gift of Wings
by Bob and Liz Johnson
Summer 2003
One of the most breathtaking sights in the world is a beautiful parrot in flight. The concept of flight has intrigued mankind since the dawn of history. Note man’s many attempts to master the physics of flight. Birds are among the few animals whose very being is designed for the dynamics of flight, yet many still feel that we must take that away from pet parrots for their own safety. Herein lies the dilemma…although most parrot caregivers feel that free flight would be ideal for their pet, they often feel that there is no way to accomplish this safely within the confines of their space and budget. Outdoor free flight, although noble as it may sound, is fraught with dangers, not the least of which are hawks and possible pesticides from neighboring trees and plants. Free flight in a house has its dangers as well, both for the house and for the bird.
Natural habitats are more frequently provided for grounded animals, as these are easier to construct. It is simpler to circumscribe an area on the ground than to enclose air space, especially enough air space for a bird to maintain sustained or continuous flight. When dealing with parrots, there is the additional problem of creating an enclosure strong enough to withstand their natural proclivities for destroying anything within reach, including the enclosure perimeter!
Yet flight is essential for a bird’s optimal physiological and psychological health. Dr. David McCluggage, DVM states in his book, Holistic Care For Birds, that if a bird cannot fly, its cardiovascular system won’t work hard enough to remain healthy. Other research has shown that birds’ air sacs work differently and more efficiently in flight. Actually, this is birdie aerobics! Birds who are permitted to fly have markedly more developed chest muscles as well as healthier and more efficient cardiovascular, respiratory, and immune systems. The psychological benefit derived from the joy and elation experienced in flight is a strong immune system enhancer as well.
One solution, which is rapidly catching on, is constructing wired-in outdoor enclosures or bird-proofing a room in the house where the birds can fly safely. Outdoor habitats where the weather permits are ideal. Although there are many possible styles of habitats, there are a few basic principles that should be addressed for any of them.
Zoning
First, one must determine the zoning regulations for that particular area. In many cases, permits are required for any permanent structure.
Wire Selection
Secondly, the wiring must be strong enough for the particular type of bird(s) to be housed there. If you are building an enclosure to house a variety of species, then you must use wire that will accommodate the largest specie. The strength of the wire is a factor of both the gauge and the size of the opening…the larger the opening the more leverage that can be brought to bear to bend or break the wire. However, the wire serves more than one purpose. In addition to serving as the basis for an enclosure to keep your birds inside, it serves to keep predators outside and it serves as a medium for your birds to climb and play on. Also, if installed properly, it serves to enhance the rigidity of your framework.
A welded wire with ½”x 1” or 1”x 1” openings will generally accomplish more of what you want from a perimeter wire. Less than a ½”x 1” opening presents the risk of a larger bird getting his toe caught when flying off from the wire. Greater than a 1”x 1” opening offers more leverage for the bird to bend or break the wire and you would need to use a heavier gauge wire. A 16ga. wire will safely house birds up through Amazon size. For birds larger than Amazons up through Blue and Gold size macaws you need at least 14ga. wire and for Greenwings and Hyacinths you need at least 12ga. wire.
For those who prefer to use ½” x 3” wire for Greenwings and Hyacinths, the added leverage would require a minimum of 10ga. wire. Many people like the look of some of the new woven wire meshes available today, however, other than the aesthetics I find the welded wire to have more advantages. Although a woven mesh will keep your birds in and predators out, it does not offer a comfortable medium for the birds to climb and play on nor does it add rigidity to the framework. In fact, if proper tension is not kept on it a bird can pinch or catch a toe in it.
Stainless steel wire is the ideal choice, but is prohibitively expensive for most budgets. The next choice would be galvanized wire which was galvanized after welding. Do not use any of the plastic coated wires.
In any outdoor habitat, protection from predators, such as theft, animals tunneling under, and insect pests is essential.
Predator Protection
First, the outer perimeter should set on a footing that extends at least two to three feet below ground level. An alternative to a footing would be a three-foot wide strip of wire mesh laid horizontally a few inches below the surface of the ground all the way around the outside of the perimeter wall. The inside edge should be firmly attached to the bottom of the perimeter wall before being covered with dirt. This will prevent predators from digging under the perimeter wall to get in. An option that offers multiple advantages is to construct your perimeter wall out of concrete block and attach your wire framework to the top of the wall. This will prevent predators and other animals from climbing around the outside of the habitat. It will give the birds inside some protection from high winds and it will prevent the birds from seeing all of the strange animals that stress them so much as well as preventing passersby from seeing the birds.
Not all predators have to tunnel under the perimeter to gain access to the habitat. Some of the most dangerous can go right through the wire. Rats can go through 1”x 1” wire easily and so can some pretty good-sized snakes. Mice can go through 1/2”x 1” wire and so can smaller snakes. Of course the most dangerous of all, the mosquito, is unhampered by either size wire. Thus the outdoor portion of any habitat must be enclosed with screen to keep out mosquitoes as well as the many other kinds of biting and stinging insects. This is for your benefit as well as the birds if you have an indoor/outdoor habitat.
Insect and Sound Barrier
The screen must be at least 4” away from 1”x 1” wire and at least 2” away from ½”x 1” wire to keep the birds from tearing it up. The screen, however, will not keep out rats or mice who can chew holes in it and then go through the wire. Additionally, raccoons will tear out whole sections of screen looking for a way to get in. So, unless you use the concrete block wall as your choice for a perimeter wall, you will need a layer of ¼”x ¼” or ½”x ½” wire mesh outside the screen to protect the screen. A possible alternative to this outer wire might be to use Pet Screen (manufactured by Phifer) instead of regular screening. They claim that it is seven times stronger than regular screen and impervious to cats and dogs. The sample that I inspected looked like it would probably hold up to a raccoon as well; however, since it is a relatively new product, I haven’t heard from any long-term users yet.
There should also be sound barriers, such as decorative walls, trees, or bushes to prevent the noise from disturbing nearby neighbors.
Home Porches and Windows
One important note…birds should NEVER be left on a porch with screen as the only protective barrier nor near a first-floor window that is open to just screen. We know of many cases where a raccoon or cat has come through unprotected screen and taken birds off of porches and even from living rooms and bedrooms.
Avian Community
Compatibility is of critical importance. Friendships are dynamic and ever changing. Some birds who were best friends one day can become enemies the next and fights can ensue. Juveniles generally tend to cohabit more peacefully. Once they mature and bond, however, many species tend to become territorial and attempt to drive the others away. Therefore any habitat with more than one bird must be closely monitored. We always encourage people to have the enclosure within view of the house, and preferably attached to the house, whenever possible.
For additional information on habitat construction and on group interactive dynamics, see our website www.ShyneFoundation.org
The Shyne Foundation is a 501(c)(3) non profit free flight natural habitat sanctuary for needy parrots. It is a 1/4 acre, 16' high wired-in enclosure set up as a mini rainforest. Donations are gratefully and graciously accepted. Shyne Foundation, Inc. |