Emergency First Aid for Birds

by gloria scholbe
Spring 2004

Many avian emergencies require immediate veterinary care.

Unfortunately, few of us are lucky enough to have a veterinarian living next door, available to take whatever swift measures are necessary to save the bird. In an emergency, the first thought a bird owner will have is to ‘get the bird to a vet’. Unfortunately, birds do die on the way. What these birds needed was emergency first aid to stabilize them before leaving home.

We never know when an emergency will occur, so it is best to be prepared ahead of time. That way, when our bird’s life is on the line, we can act quickly and surely to stabilize its vital systems so it does not die before the vet can provide appropriate treatment.

This paper lists supplies and equipment that every bird owner should keep handy. More importantly, it also describes how and when to use these items. It is pointless to ask you to keep 3”x3” gauze in your first aid kit without also telling you why it is there.

This paper covers four main points:
1. Veterinarian Pre-work
2. List of supplies and equipment
3. Description of purpose and use of the listed items
4. Sampling of emergency treatments

Veterinarian Pre-work

Before you begin to assemble any equipment, obtain the name and phone numbers of two veterinarians in your area who provide avian care. Once you have identified who these veterinarians are, call them and obtain the following information:
• What is this clinic’s policy for providing emergency care? (Surprisingly, some clinics provide care by appointment only. They do not respond to emergencies.) You must know this ahead of time. You cannot make an appointment for tomorrow if your bird requires critical care now.
• Can your vet be reached at an emergency number during off-clinic hours? If so, obtain that number and keep it in your emergency kit.
• Will your vet respect you as a partner in your bird’s care or does he/she expect you to defer entirely to his/her judgment? How you feel about the answer is up to you, but you should know what to expect ahead of time.

If you are satisfied with the answers to these questions and any others important to you, then these are your vets. Write their names and numbers here or on the back of this paper so you will not have to look them up in the phone book when you need them.
Name: ______________________ Address: _________________ Number:__________
Name: ______________________ Address: _________________ Number:__________

Supplies and Equipment

Travel Cage

  1. Pet Carrier – Do not transport your bird in its cage. A cage will not protect the traumatized or sick bird from cold, heat, or stress / fear. In addition, appropriately appointed cages typically have toys, swings and other items that can bash into a bird so cages should not even be used for transporting healthy birds. Instead, purchase a carrier appropriate for the size and species of your bird.
  2. Select a carrier with metal side grates to prevent chewers from destroying it. Ensure that the carrier is small enough to restrict movement. Birds should not be able to flap their wings in an appropriately sized carrier. Carriers are not intended to be lived in; they are methods of safe transport. If the carrier is too large, a bird could become injured by bouncing off the sides if the automobile should have to make quick stops or turns.
  3. Perch – Once you have the carrier, install a perch, appropriate to the size of the bird, low to the floor of the carrier. The perch will give the bird something to grip and prevent it from sliding back and forth in the carrier. You will have to judge, based on the length of the bird and the length of the carrier, how far to the front or back you place the perch. Leave just enough clearance from the floor so the bird will not catch its toe underneath. The reason the perch is place low is to prevent the bird from falling. Leaving a little clearance below the perch will allow you to slide newspaper under the perch to catch any droppings for the vet to examine. Make sure you insert two screws through the carrier into each of the ends to prevent the perch from rotating underneath the bird.
  4. Hot water bottle – Cold weather can drain energy and life from a sick or injured bird very quickly. Heat must be provided in the carrier, especially during transport to and from the pre-heated automobile. Protect the bird from being burned by wrapping the hot water bottle in one layer of towel. If too many layers are used, there will be no heat. If you do not have a hot water bottle, use any plastic beverage bottle, but then you will also have to fasten the bottle in the carrier so it doesn’t fly into the bird during abrupt stops or while moving the carrier from place to place. Prepare a way to do this before the carrier is needed. At the vet’s office, refill the bottle with hot water again, before leaving.
  5. Blanket or beach towel – Depending on the size of the carrier, wrap it in the blanket or towel to prevent temperature loss through the side and front grates. Leave a small hole in the front for air.
  6. Plastic trash bag - If the carrier is small enough, place it in a plastic trash bag for extra protection from heat loss while moving to and from building and automobile. Remember to open the bag once in the car or building.
  7. Food and Water cups – Do not feed an injured bird in case the vet needs to anesthetize it for surgery. Do not place water in the cup while the bird is in transport or it might spill, causing the bird to get wet and chilled.

Hospital Cage

A hospital cage is smaller than a bird’s normal cage. It will fulfill the following criteria:

• heat can be provided
• can be partially covered to help retain heat
• activity level is restricted
• makes it easy to catch the bird for treatment, minimizing stress and preventing the bird from hurting itself further by trying to get away from you
• can be easily removed to a quiet room, allowing the bird to recover
• promotes a feeling of security for the bird

Some aviculturists use baby bird brooders for any sick birds. Baby bird brooders range in price and complexity from simple reptile glass terrarium with a screen top to thermostatically controlled human pediatric incubators. For some birds, I use the glass terrarium, but if the bird shows signs of distress in this type of enclosure, I use a small bird cage. For most bird owners, a smaller cage would be the better choice.

Heat Source

The best heat sources for birds are those that do not provide light. Heat lights / lamps prevent the bird from resting and will shatter if water is splashed on them. My personal preference is a heating panel that can be attached to the cage. This provides radiant heat that warms the bird rather than the air around the bird. Make sure to position the heat source so the bird can choose to move closer if it desires more heat, or further away if it becomes too warm. Remember that a bird can die from becoming overheated. Another caution is that in some cases a bird might be too sick or injured to move closer or further away from the heat.source. In these cases, you must closely monitor the bird for any signs of heat stress, such as panting. Birds that require more heat will be fluffed and possibly shivering. Sources for heating panels:
http://www.avitec.com/PearlcoN.html
http://www.a1solutions.com/WPCat/RadPanelPets.asp

If you did not have the foresight to prepare for an emergency, you can provide heat by placing a lighted lamp near the bird’s cage, and enclosing the cage and the lamp together under several blankets to hold the heat. However, this method carries great risk of fire. You could also try placing an electric blanket around three sides and the top of the cage, if the bird will resist chewing.

Thermometer

A good average environmental temperature at which to maintain a sick bird is between 85 - 95 degrees Fahrenheit, but the requirements of individual birds will vary based on the particular emergency the bird is experiencing. In order to monitor the temperature, you will need a small household thermometer. Place the thermometer where it will do the best job of reporting to you the environmental temperature experienced by the sick bird. Naturally you would not wish the bird to chew on the thermometer, so it is best not to leave the thermometer in the cage, but rather to manually do this checking, frequently especially when the heat source is first set up and until it becomes stable. Use good judgment and observational skills to ensure you are maintaining your bird at a temperature appropriate to its needs.

First Aid Kit

The first thing you need in order to assemble a First Aid Kit is the container. Since our First Aid Kit is going to hold everything but the hospital cage and the heating panel, we will need a decent-sized plastic tool box. Mine is 18” wide by 10” deep by 13” high. Ideally, when you use something, you also will remember to replace it so it will be available for next time. A useful first aid kit contains:

• instructions and phone numbers
• tools
• supplies
• remedies

Tools

Some of these tools can be purchased from a hardware or home depot store and others can be obtained at a medical supply store, online, or possibly from your veterinarian. I cannot stress enough that you need to keep these tools in the first aid kit. It does not matter if you already have some of these in your tool drawer or toolbox. These tools are a part of the first aid kit and should be reserved for that purpose only. Otherwise, in an emergency, you might not be able to find them.

1. Scissors – for cutting tape, gauze, string, cloth, etc.
2. Thread ripper – from the sewing department (or small manicure scissors). For cutting away string or thread wrapped around your bird.
3. Needle-nosed pliers – for pulling a heavily bleeding blood feather
4. Tweezers – for removing small pieces of embedded material, like splinters of wood or glass.
5. Hemostat – It looks like a pair of small scissors, but instead of cutting, it clamps on and holds. It is useful for clamping a bleeding feather or just for holding two pieces of tape or cloth together temporarily while you are doing something else.
6. Claw clippers – for trimming the sharp tips from nails.
7. Ball – tipped feeding needle of a size appropriate for your species of bird. Obtain from Feeding Tech online or from your Veterinarian.
8. Syringes - upon which you can screw the feeding needle. Sizes depend on your species of bird. I suggest several of different sizes: 1cc, 5cc, 10cc, 35cc.
9. One inch wide Velcro tape – the length depends on the size of your bird when it is wrapped in a towel for handling. You can keep the towel in place by encircling your bird / towel bundle with Velcro, which will attach to itself. You can purchase Velcro in the sewing department of most stores.

Supplies

Sizes will have to be adapted to the size of your bird. Gauze pads in a 4”x4” size would be too large for a cockatiel, but might work for a Macaw.

1. Gauze pads – to cover wounds and injuries and for applying poultices.
2. Gauze bandage – to hold gauze pads and poultices. Bandages can also be wrapped around a bird’s wings and body to hold a smaller bird’s broken wings in place.
3. Rolled up 4” wide 36” long strips of cotton cloth - for larger birds if gauze bandage would not work.
4. Masking Tape – should be used for birds instead of adhesive tape or bandages. Masking tape is less sticky and will be easier to remove from feathers without damaging them.
5. Q-tips – for removing obstructions from oral cavities, wiping away discharge, dabbing up moisture, applying topicals, etc.
6. Towel - for wrapping and restraining the bird. For a quaker you might use a hand towel and for a macaw you would use a bath towel. Besides restraining a bird, towels give birds something to claw and bite on besides you. Remember not to wrap so tightly that the bird’s breathing would be restricted. Birds must be able to expand their chests in order to breathe. Also, be aware that a bird can become very warm while wrapped in a towel and could overheat if wrapped too long. Watch for panting and flushing of facial tissue. You must judge whether the bird is becoming heat-stressed. If so and if possible, release the bird and allow it to cool off.

Remedies

Emergency remedies described in this section are not intended to be used for long-term care or to take the place of a veterinarian. They are intended mainly for stabilizing the bird to improve its chances for survival prior to treatment by your veterinary or other professional practitioner. This discussion covers three types of remedies for emergency care: herbs, homeopathics, and flower essences.

Herbs – Many herbs contain pharmacologically active chemicals. In this respect, they are very much like the drugs used by conventional medical practitioners. The difference between herbs and drugs is that no specific chemicals have been isolated from the rest of the herb plant and/or synthesized. Thus, chemicals in the whole plant are either buffered or assisted by other chemicals contained in that plant. Because of this natural interaction and balance, it is understood by those familiar with herbal healing, that herbs tend to be kinder to the body and cause fewer side-effects than drugs do.

It is a myth that herbs are safe simply because they are natural. Some herbs are safe in large doses and other herbs are deadly at even low doses. For the layperson unfamiliar with herbal properties, it is best to use herbs of low toxicity at low doses and aim for a slower healing process. Only the professional herbal practitioner should address acute illnesses and emergency conditions requiring larger doses.

Therefore, for the purposes of this paper on emergency use, the list of suggested herbs are necessarily limited. An herbal healing kit would contain a larger list. Herbs with strong antibiotic properties are not suggested here because they could interfere with laboratory tests and diagnostic procedures that might be performed by your vet.

Emergency Herb List:

• Slippery Elm bark – obtain the herb in capsules. Open the capsules and mix the powder into water before administering orally with a syringe. Slippery elm, when moistened will form a gel that protects the digestive tract from damage after your bird swallows small sharp objects. Caution: Do not administer without mixing with water or slippery elm will draw water from your bird’s body and dehydrate it. Dosage: administer enough to coat the digestive tract. This herb is not toxic and has been used as a temporary food source. Long term use is not recommended because it can inhibit the absorption of minerals from food. For that reason, it also should not be used in conjunction with drugs or herbs used as drugs. Substitute: Marshmallow, the herb (not the candy), has similar properties and can be substituted if slippery elm is not available.
• Aloe Vera gel – some aloe products are intended to be used externally and others internally. Purchase both versions, or keep an Aloe houseplant on your windowsill and its leaves can be snipped off as needed. Externally aloe is used for burns, bites, cuts and minor abrasions. Internally the gel can help to soothe and protect the digestive tract. Do not purchase whole-leaf aloe for birds.
• Cayenne – red pepper powder can be sprinkled externally on most injuries to stop bleeding. Do not use it in the eyes. It can also be administered internally to victims of heat stress and shock.

Homeopathics – homeopathic remedies are especially suitable for emergency treatment because they will not interfere in any way with veterinary treatment and they can act swiftly and effectively for a variety of conditions. The difficulty with using homeopathic remedies is learning how to select the correct remedy for its matching condition; but this paper focuses on specific situations so the choices are limited.

Do not confuse homeopathic remedies with herbal remedies. They are quite different in their preparation and in their actions. Herbal remedies deal with chemicals and the physical, a concept with which Western / conventional medicine is familiar and comfortable. Homeopathic remedies, on the other hand, deal with the energetics of different substances. This concept is rather difficult for Western trained minds to understand and accept since these remedies cannot be proven using current scientific methods.

The way homeopathic practitioners ‘prove’ a remedy is to give it to healthy testers who are not experiencing any symptoms. The remedy will cause symptoms in normal healthy people, but it will ‘cure’ an individual that has those symptoms. In homeopathy, ‘like cures like.’ For example, bee venom causes swelling. A homeopathic remedy made from bee venom (apis mel) will ease the rapid swelling and inflammation from a variety of stings, bites or infections. If individuals who are not experiencing swelling or inflammation takes this remedy, they might ‘prove’ the remedy by developing swelling or inflammation somewhere in their body. The stronger the potency of the remedy, the stronger the reaction. This is why inexperienced people are encouraged to use low potency remedies in case they make a mistake when choosing a remedy.

Homeopathic remedies are made from more than just herbal/vegetable substances. Animals, insects, minerals, metals and even poisonous substances are used to make homeopathic remedies. For example, you would poison your bird if you gave it the herb Arnica. The homeopathic Arnica, on the other hand, is safe for victims of trauma, bleeding and shock.

The difference between herbal Arnica and homeopathic Arnica results from the preparation. The homeopathic version is prepared so that no physical trace of the herb exists in the remedy. What remains, after preparation, is the healing energies of the herb. In the herbal version, the physical properties and chemicals remain.

Forms: Homeopathic remedies are mainly preserved in three forms:


1. alcohol based tincture – this is the original form in which homeopathic remedies were developed and preserved. It is less suitable for birds than the other two.
2. lactose tablet– dissolves easily in a drop of water, and is the best form for birds even though birds supposedly cannot digest milk sugar.
3. sucrose pellet– does not dissolve easily in a drop of water and so I find it less suitable for birds than the lactose based tablets.

Potencies: One more issue that we need to address is: homeopathic potencies. Homeopathic remedies come in different potencies, listed on the labels. You will see a number like: 6x, 30x, 200x, or 6c, 30c, 200c. The higher the number, the stronger the potency. High potencies can be dangerous to use if the wrong remedy is selected. I do not recommend the 200 potency, for use by those who have not studied homeopathy. One exception is Carbo Vegetabalis. If your bird is unconscious, cold and its life force seems to be leaving it, then your only chance to save the bird might be the 200c potency of this remedy.

For the homeopathic part of this paper, I drew from two major resources, both of whom use homeopathic remedies to treat and heal injured wild birds.

Administration: Unlike the administration of herbs or drugs, which are continued even after symptoms have eased, homeopathic remedies must be discontinued as soon as the symptoms are no longer observed. Otherwise, the remedy could cause the symptoms to reoccur. For example, if you have administered a remedy to aid labored breathing, you would not give that remedy again once breathing is normal.

The lower the potency, the more frequently a remedy must be administered. For example, with a severe condition, a 6 potency remedy might be administered every 30 minutes until symptoms start to ease, then every hour until symptoms are barely visible, then perhaps once every 4-6 hours until symptoms disappear.

If no improvement is seen after a few doses with the remedy you are using, then stop that remedy and try another.

Because homeopathic remedies are sensitive to energies, you should not touch them with your fingers. Dispense the appropriate number of pellets or tablets into the cap; transfer to a clean spoon; crush them either between two spoons or inside of a clean folded piece of paper. Add a drop of pure water to dissolve the tablet and administer directly into the bird’s lower mandible (beak.)

Dosage: is the same whether the patient is a horse or a bird, but some healers use more tablets for larger animals simply for the sake of volume. For companion birds, one tablet per dose is fine.

Antidoting: Homeopathic remedies are ‘antidoted’, meaning they cannot do their work in the presence of strong odors or if they are contaminated by the energies of other substances. For this reason, homeopathic remedies should not be given with food or drink. Administer homeopathic remedies at least 15-20 minutes away from food. The odor and flavor of mint (peppermint, spearmint, etc) inactivates homeopathic remedies. Store the remedies tightly capped in a cool dark place. They remain stable for about 10 years. Never open the bottle in a room with strong odors.

Remedy Selection: Select remedies according to careful observation of symptoms. Two birds with the same condition might display different symptoms. For example, a restless and fearful shock victim would be treated with Aconite. On the other hand, a bird suffering from shock, that is quiet and exhausted, would be treated with Arnica. As the disease progresses, the symptoms will change. When the symptoms change, select a different, more appropriate remedy. You might, for example, treat the initial symptoms of shock with Arnica and then switch to Aconite when the bird becomes more agitated.

Emergency Homeopathic List:

• Aconite – for shock and fever if the patient is restless and fearful. Aconite is a natural tranquilizer and fever reducer. It is also excellent after trauma and surgery.
• Allium Sativa – for discharge from eyes and nose with labored breathing. Victim is thirsty and sensitive to light.
• Apis Mel – for rapid inflammation of bee stings, concussion/brain swelling, sprains.
• Arnica – for shock, any trauma, exhaustion, fever, bruising and bleeding if the victim is quiet. It helps repair damaged blood vessels.
• Arsenicum Alba– food poisoning or bleeding from the lungs.
• Belladonna – for central nervous system problems, heat stroke, loss of physical control.
• Bioplasma – contains the 12 tissue salts and helps to replace electrolytes after shock and dehydration. Give no more than twice a day. It is used in conjunction with Aconite and Arnica.
• Carbo Vegetabilis – this is known as ‘the corpse reviver’ and is used for birds that are collapsed, limp, and cold with a flickering life force. Also used for wheezing and respiratory bleeding.
• Echinacea – fights infections (The herb version also fights infections, but might interfere with lab tests.)
• Gelsemium – for shock if the victim is weak, cold, lethargic.
• Hamamelis – to stop serious bleeding and for burns. Use after Arnica for concussion and bleeding within the eyes.
• Hypercal – minor bleeding from an injury.
• Hypericum – for burns, bruises, and nerve damage
• Ignatia – fear, fright, grief
• Ledum - puncture wounds, cat bites, after injections and vaccinations. Also for continuing treatment after Aconite.
• Rhus Tox (toxicodendron) – sprains, strains, hives, intense burning/itching
• Sulphur – switch to this to continue treatment after carbo veg
• Symphytum – for broken bones AFTER the bone has been set.
• Plumbum – convulsions that might lead to coma.

Flower Essences – Flower essences are similar to homeopathic remedies in their classification as energy medicine. No physical part of the flower is contained in the remedy. Only its energies remain. Flower essences differ from homeopathic remedies in three ways:

1. Flowers and trees are the source of these remedies wheras homeopathic remedies also draw on the animal and mineral world as sources.
2. The preparation method is differently from that of preparing homeopathics and flower essences do not come in pill or tablet form. Most of them are alcohol-based, but some glycerine or vinegar-based essences are produced for animals and children.
3. The diseases addressed by flower essences are of mental or emotional nature.

Flower essences will not interfere and are safe to use in conjunction with homeopathic remedies, herbs, and drugs. When the symptoms change, you must select new remedies appropriate to the symptoms.

Preparation: Flower essences are often combined in order to design a remedy specific to the needs of the patient. Combine essences in a one-ounce amber colored dropper bottle, which you have partially filled with pure spring water. Add two drops of each of the selected flower essences from their stock bottles to the treatment bottle. If Rescue Remedy is used, four drops should be added from its stock bottle to the treatment bottle. Essences in stock bottles will keep indefinitely. Preparations in treatment bottles will keep for about three weeks if refrigerated.

Administration and Dosage: Deliver 4 drops, using the dropper of the treatment bottle, orally into the bird’s lower beak. Alternatively, the remedy can be dropped onto the skin at the nape of the neck after parting the feathers; it can be gently sprayed into the air around the bird and onto the bird; or it can be placed in the bird’s drinking water. The most effective method in an emergency situation is directly into the bird’s lower mandible (beak.)

Emergency Flower Essence: In most emergency cases, the flower essence of choice is Bach’s Rescue Remedy. Under other brands, it is also called Calming Essence or Five Flower Remedy. This remedy contains the following five flower essences:

• Cherry Plum – used for loss of mental or physical control
• Clematis – used for unconsciousness, disassociation, or dreaminess of shock
• Impatiens – used for agitation and stress
• Rock Rose – used to give courage in the face of terror and panic
• Star of Bethlehem – used to soothe memories of past traumas

Many other flower essences are available, but their strength and effectiveness lies in repeated dosing over a period of time. Rescue Remedy is the essence for emergency use. It is also useful for after-surgery.

Other than Rescue Remedy, you would also need the one-ounce dropper bottle, mentioned above, to make a treatment essence from the stock bottle you purchase.

Emergency Treatments – The first treatment for any emergency, before treating your bird, is to calm yourself or you will do your bird no good. Take two deep breaths and let the air out slowly. Give yourself some rescue remedy. Concentrate on lowering your own panic so you do not frighten or traumatize your bird any further. Now evaluate your bird’s condition to see what needs to be done.

Beak injury or loss – Stop the bleeding and treat for shock. Do not place back with the cage mate. Give homeopathic Arnica for shock and bleeding.

Bites – Cat bites and scratches can carry pasteurella bacteria, which your vet must treat with antibiotics within 12 hours of the bite. Bleeding may not be evident. Dog bites can break bones and injure internal organs. Stop bleeding and treat for shock. Administer homeopathic Ledum and Hypericum for puncture wounds and homeopathic Echinacea for infection.

Bleeding – Treatment is dependent on location. For internal or external bleeding give homeopathic hamamelis. Externally, sprinkle cayenne on the injury to encourage clotting.

In order to stop heavy bleeding, the bird must be restrained. If the bleeding is on legs, toes or wing, apply pressure above the injury (between the injury and the body) by pinching the extremity firmly between thumb and finger. The intent is to restrict the flow of blood so it will have a chance to clot. Apply pressure for a minute or two, then release pressure for several seconds to allow blood to circulate so the leg, toe or wing does not die from lack of blood flow. If the extremity is still bleeding, reapply pressure. Continue this procedure until a clot has formed and the bleeding has stopped.

If the bleeding is on the body, apply a gauze pad to the area and hold firmly, but not firmly enough to injure the bird any further or to cause pain. The intent is to allow a clot to form between the injury and the gauze pad. For this reason, it is important that you do NOT peek under the pad to see if the bleeding has stopped. Each time you peek, you will break the forming clot and bleeding will continue. If blood leaks through the pad, simply add more padding. You may remove the outside padding but leave the first padding in place. Your vet will remove the padding in order to place stitches.

Breathing problems – use Allium cepa if there is a discharge from eyes and nares; use Carbo vetablilis if the discharge is bloody; Allium sativum if there is wet pneumonia; Give Bryonia if there is dry pneumonia and the bird trying to get a good breath.

Broken blood feathers – unless there is heavy bleeding from the blood feather, (which is not likely unless the bird has a clotting problem) do not pull blood feathers. Restrain the bird, sprinkle cayenne on the break and apply light pressure to the break until the bleeding has stopped. Give Rescue Remedy to calm the bird. Place the bird in its carrier or a small cage, where it cannot thrash around and injure the feather again.

If the bird is shocky, provide heat. If the feather is severely damaged and continues to bleed, have the vet remove it. More relationships between humans and their birds are irreparably destroyed by pulling blood feathers than almost any other cause outside of deliberate abuse. This is especially true for cockatoos and African greys. Pulling feathers hurts. The birds do not understand why you would hurt them and they lose trust in you. Most blood feathers are pulled unnecessarily and as a result, the bird will thrash around in the cage to avoid the person who has hurt it. A vicious cycle then ensues, with the bird breaking more blood feathers, which the owners think must be pulled.

Broken bones - It is neither needful nor desirable for the owner to secure broken bones in a bird. Attempting to fasten bandages or splints could do more damage than not. Treat the bird for shock and place it in its carrier, which should be of the appropriate size to restrict movement. After the veterinarian has set the bones, treat with homeopathic Arnica and Symphytum, which will help the bones to quickly heal. If the broken bones are located in the body, you should also treat for internal bleeding. If a leg is broken, you should pad the inside of the carrier with towels, as if it were a nest, so the bird cannot use the perch and so the towels will help it to retain position without sliding around.

Burns – Burns are classified as First degree, Second degree, and Third degree.

• First degree burns – skin is red but unbroken with no danger of infection. Use Aloe Vera gel topically plus the homeopathics mentioned below.
• Second degree burns - skin is red and blistered. Victim will become dehydrated from loss of fluid. Give Electrolytes and homeopathic Bio Plasma. Use Aloe Vera gel topically plus the homeopathics mentioned below.
• Third degree burns – skin is damaged fro outside to inside and may be charred. Skin will be dead and may peel off. Do not treat or touch the burn topically.

Do NOT use butter on burns. Butter and other oils will trap the heat and cause the burns to deepen. Burns should be immediately immersed in cold water to stop the spread of the burn. Ice should NOT be used.

Give homeopathic Aconite for burns or scalds; give Hypericum for pain and to heal damaged nerve endings. Treat for shock but be careful with heat source, which may increase pain and worsen the burn.

Concussion – from flying in to windows, walls, ceiling fans, etc. Start with Arnica for trauma. Switch to Hamamelis if you suspect bleeding in the brain or see bleeding inside of the eye. Otherwise switch to Apis mel for swelling in the brain.

Convulsions - Treat with Plumbum if the bird looks as if it might be going into coma. Otherwise, treat with Aconite and Belladonna. Switch to Hypericum as symptoms ease.

Dehydration – Check for dehydration by pulling gently on the feathers at the bird’s nape. If the feathers pull quickly back into place, the bird is not appreciably dehydrated. If the feathers move slowly back into place, there is dehydration. Administer a sports drink with electrolytes or an electrolyte solution. Administer homeopathic Bioplasma.

Egg binding - Provide heat and quiet. Be careful when transferring the hen to her carrier that you do not break the egg inside of her. Give Rescue Remedy and Gelsemium.

Eye injuries and problems – Give Euphrasia

Foreign Objects:
• Swallowed – give herbal Slippery Elm to protect the digestive tract and to help pass the object.
• In Flesh – Treat with homeopathic Ledum and Hypericum for puncture and pain.

Heat Stroke – with weak, trembling limbs, give homeopathic Gelsemium. If the bird is collapsed, give homeopathic Carbo Veg. When bird is conscious, give electrolyte solution or sports drink. Apply cool water to head and feet. Give the herb Cayenne in a few drops of water.

Shock – If patient has fever and is agitated, give Aconite. If quiet give Arnica. If cold and quiet, give Gelsemium. If collapsed, give Carbo Veg. In all cases, give Rescue Remedy and provide heat, as described in the first section.

Stings – Apis mel for rapid inflammation; Ledum and Hypericum for puncture and pain.

Within the scope of an article like this, or even within a book, it would be impossible to cover every possible emergency contingency. Hopefully what we have done here is given you some ideas and approaches to dealing with emergencies that you might encounter with your bird.